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Lake Powell 2020

Draft, Converting Old Site

Richard Rathe, September 2020 (Birds, History)

It had been ten years since I last visited Lake Powell. This year I went with my college friend Al and his partner Marian. Not having our own boat, we decided to rent a houseboat from the Bullfrog Marina. This turned out to be a great idea! With a few exceptions it was clean and well maintained (certain lights and the gas grill did not work).

Our Houseboat Anchored in Iceberg Canyon

The main problem was how late in the day we got started (nominal “check in” time is 10am, we did not leave until after 3pm). For various reasons the day we left was very crowded (COVID, low water facilitating small boat campers, last big week-end of the summer, etc.)

Six Night Lake Powell Trip (Click Map to Enlarge)

In the few hours we had on the first day we headed north to Forgotten Canyon. It was packed with small boats and large groups of people camped on the beaches exposed by the low water level. We retreated and found a small anchorage on a large bend near a side canyon (which we explored by kayak first thing the next day).

Alcove with 100 Foot Dry Waterfall Above

Day 2

We moved back up the canyon so we could be closer to activities on land. We were treated both nights to inappropriate music, bad karaoke and loud boat engines. I put in my earbuds and listened to Earth Spirit by R. Carlos Nakai (Native American flute) while sleeping out under the stars.

That evening (after most of the day’s heat was gone) we made the first of two visits to the eight hundred year old Defiance House Ruins. These are very well stabilized and open to the public. (Kudos to the Park Service!) The first thing you notice are the large petroglyphs on the canyon wall. There is no ambiguity as to their meaning… three warriors with shields and weapons.

The site consists of two major rooms with doors facing in opposite directions. The largest is approximately 8-10 feet on a side. There is a patio beyond the structure with a vertical entrance to the Kiva.

Kiva Ceiling with 800 Year Old Soot from Campfires

Day 3

We returned the next day and I took some additional 360° panoramas.

We then proceeded about two miles up the canyon. We saw many interesting things including ravens, flowers being pollinated (or eaten?) by large black hornets with orange wings, and what I think were three-toed dinosaur tracks!

The day was very hot so we took a siesta near a grove of small oak trees before we headed back to the boat. In spite of my best efforts I got dehydrated. The temp was in the low 90s with very low humidity. It just sucked the water out of me!

Day 4

The next day we left that area to do more exploring. We ended up in Lake Canyon (which apparently is a very hard place to find anchorage with higher water). It was less crowded and the people were more considerate, which was a big plus. We again used our inflatable kayak to explore a side canyon in the late afternoon.

Day 5

We headed up the main canyon in what turned out to be a delightful wet-boot hike. It was very pleasant to have running water available at all times! There used to be a lake at the head of the canyon behind a natural dam. At some point that dam burst and there was a huge flash flood. There was evidence of this catastrophe all along our walk.

There were lots of trees and flowers in bloom. We saw several critters including a bat (dead?) and a red-spotted toad. We also passed a small ruins high on the canyon wall.

Day 6

Again we picked up our anchors and moved to Iceberg Canyon with its Cyclopean rock walls—Truly Magnificent! Here we finally found some real solitude in our own little side canyon where we swam and relaxed.

We took out the kayak and explored the three arms of the upper canyon. We had to maneuver around hundreds of dead trees protruding from the low water. The south arm has a rockfall that created a separate small lake. Compare with my photos of the Green Lake from 2010 to see how much lower the water is.

The next day we headed back to Bullfrog and civilization. Click on the video below for clips from each canyon we visited.

See the Full Gallery for more photos of petroglyphs, HDR photos, and panoramas–including my lightening tour of nearby parks Goblin Valley, Capital Reef, Grand Staircase-Escalante, and Bryce Canyon. I concluded by crossing the Colorado River at the Glen Canyon Dam (which creates Lake Powell!).